

Why Should I Use A Mustang II IFS?
Although a MII won't be best for every car and truck, they're often the best choice for the applications we list. Subframes are often less expensive, but are much more time consuming and difficult, and often present problems with too wide a track width, and difficult bumper and sheet metal remounting. The worst thing about a subframe is that you've "Burned your Bridges" - you cannot update the suspension again. Remember all the Corvair IFS that got replaced with Mustang II - a subframe cuts off your options along with your frame!
Why Can't I Just Use A Ford Crossmember?
We used to, but all the problems led us to design our kit in 1983. You generally have to cut so much of the frame or crossmember that strength suffers and sagging would often occur, requiring several realignments. Using a stock crossmember also tends to make the car sit higher, so you've got to cut your springs and mess up the geometry, or buy expensive dropped spindles. Now you've spent the money you tried to save by not buying a kit, wasted a bunch of time trying to make the installation, and lost ride, handling, and ground clearance on top of all the aggravation?
What Drop Will I Get?
Since tire diameter directly affects ride height, you need to know that our standard kits put the spindle center at the same height as the bottom of the frame. Some competitor's kits sit 1 1/2" higher! Measure the distance from the bottom of the frame, to the lower control arm bolt to compare - ours is 3 ½”. Our Ultra-Low kits put the spindle center 1 1/2" above the frame bottom. You will have a 1" plus or minus latitude in height with your final spring trim, so by changing tire diameter and spring trim, you can generally get a 2" to 5" drop with our standard kit, and another 1 1/2"with Ultra-Low Kits. We feel it's best to get the right stance with the right kit - not excessively cut springs or drop spindles.
What Springs Will I Need?
It's a matter of total weight and weight distribution due to engine position. Assuming a small block V-8 is used, light cars with the motor mounts 4" - 6” behind the axle center line (33 - 34 Ford and 34 - 35 Chevy) usually need 4 cyl. springs. Heavier cars (35 - 54) usually have the engine mounted further forward, and generally need V-6 springs, with a 1/2 coil cut to get the lower arms level, if necessary. Big blocks, 50's pickups, and the larger fat fender cars usually require V-8 springs. Excessively heavy cars with Hemis, 460's, and pickups into the 60's and 70's often need springs from an 82'- 93'5.0 Mustang, which are about I" taller and 15% higher rate than MII V-8, but still fit MII mountings. The basic rule is to get the lower arms level with FULL weight loaded.
Is The MII Strong Enough?
The ball joint and tie rod end studs are actually Larger than those on a subframe, and are the same size used on full size Fords! You should always upgrade to larger brakes on any application - see our listing on ECI disc kits.
Should I Use Power Or Manual Steering?
For most applications, we prefer the manual, since it’s slower ratio makes for better road feel and steers easier than most people expect. Extreme U-Joint angles can greatly increase effort, so try to minimize them. Power racks are great in a parking lot, but tend to be pretty quick on the Highway; but cutting the pump pressure, and a front sway bar helps tame it. Power racks are most often used on big block installations, and 50's pickups and cars. Narrowed kits must use manual racks, on stock or widened kits, either power or manual can be used.
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